Skincare Ingredient Spotlight : Ectoin

We’re back with a new skingredient! If there’s one word we’re hearing everywhere we go, it’s Ectoin, and it’s fast becoming the unsung hero for barrier repair this year.

If your skin has ever felt stressed, tight and reactive, this one’s for you. As always, grab your favourite beverage and let’s chat…

With so many actives currently available, it can be tricky to determine what’s suitable for more sensitive skin types. With a multitude of options that promise to deliver more glow, more hydration and quicker results, for reactive skin, sometimes less is more. One overenthusiastic ingredient and your face resembles a beetroot (speaking from personal experience after indulging in one TikTok skin trend too many!).

For those of us with sensitive skin, our skin type tends to have a more easily disrupted barrier than other skin types. This means it can’t protect itself quite as effectively against external aggressors, from pollution to a new skincare product you’ve been dying to try. On top of the usual culprits like weather changes and UV rays, when we add in a range of actives to our skincare routine, our skin ends up on the defense, just trying to survive. Sound scary? Enter ectoin!

What is Ectoin?

Unlike many other ingredients we’ve delved into in our blogs, ectoin isn’t derived from plants, nor is it a synthetic silicone. Ectoin is a small molecule derived from amino acids (the building blocks of protein). Ectoin naturally occurs, and it’s originally found in microorganisms living in extreme environments (think salty lakes and hot springs). Tiny organisms generate ectoin to protect themselves from heat, UV rays and dehydration. It can be synthetic (lab-made) or naturally sourced from the above bacteria in those harsh environments.

In human skin, ectoin essentially acts as a shield against stress, helping our skin to cope with irritation. But before we delve deeper into ectoin, we first have to talk about the skin barrier and its role.

Do our bodies produce Ectoin?

No. Unlike other topical ingredients such as collagen and exosomes, our bodies do not produce ectoin, and it can only be applied topically, i.e. through skincare products.

The Skin Barrier

Our skin’s barrier is pretty much what it says on the tin. It’s the outer layer of cells and lipids (technically called the stratum corneum). It keeps all of the goodness in and the badness out. A healthy skin barrier is vital to our skin’s overall health. A healthy skin barrier will help to keep moisture in and prevent water from evaporating, protect against irritants, support repair and, of course, optimises the efficacy of our skincare products. When this barrier is weakened, we tend to see dryness, sensitivity, redness and even breakouts.

How Do I Know if my Skin Barrier is Compromised?

If you’re experiencing redness, irritation, flakiness, rough texture, sensitivity to your skincare products and reoccurring breakouts, your barrier may be compromised.

Benefits of Ectoin

Barrier repair is ectoin’s signature strength. It helps weakened barriers to retain moisture and keep any irritants at bay. This is important for sensitive skin, but also ideal for all skin types as it helps to improve our tolerance to actives that we may include in our skincare routines, such as retinols, retinoids, acids and more.

Humectants help to bind water molecules to our skin. This helps our skin to stay plump and hydrated. Humectants offers deep hydration, so it’s ideal for dry and dehydrated skin types. But ectoin is more than just a humectant, it's actually a little more sophisticated. It's an osmolyte, which means it not only attracts water, it helps skin cells retain the water they already have and maintain the correct balance.

It's also an extremolyte, which means it has the ability to protect our cells in extreme conditions like heat, dryness or exposure to harsh UV rays. To put it simply, ectoin stabilises the skin cell membranes and proteins so that they don’t get damaged.

Ectoin is championed for its ability to soothe irritation, making it a star ingredient for those with rosacea or skin prone to allergies. It’s also a preferred choice for post-treatment skin, such as microneedling or chemical peels.

It also encourages our skin’s natural repair process by stabilising the cells and shielding them from stressors. This in turn can help promote more resilient skin and an improved texture. It helps to make our skin less reactive, so that you can begin using actives in your skincare routine with fewer flare-ups.

And, of course, ectoin wouldn’t be a cult favourite without its anti-aging properties! As ectoin reduces oxidative stress and protect our skin cells, it helps to minimise fine lines and maintain our skin’s elasticity.

What Does Ectoin Feel Like?

Generally, ectoin’s consistency is lightweight and non-greasy, which makes it an ideal choice for layering under SPF or makeup. It absorbs into the skin quite quickly.

What Age is Ectoin For?

Ectoin is suitable for all ages, from teen skin all the way up to more mature skin. It is technically not considered an “active” ingredient in the same way ingredients such as retinols or retinoids are, and is gentle enough to use on all skin types. Supporting the skin’s barrier should be a priority at every skincare stage in life, and it’s never too early or too late to begin using ectoin-based products in your routine.

What Skin Types is Ectoin For?

Everyone! Especially skin types that are dry and/or sensitive.

Can I Use Ectoin With other Actives?

Yes, and it makes using other actives more tolerable.

When Will I See Results/How Long For Ectoin to Work?

You should begin seeing results such as hydration and calmer skin almost immediately. Noticeable barrier repair and a reduction in redness are typically seen within weeks with regular use.

How Should I Incorporate Ectoin into my skincare routine?

One of the simplest ways to experience ectoin is in a lightweight moisturiser. Formulas that combine ectoin with other skin-supporting ingredients, like natural lipids or plant oils, give your skin hydration plus barrier repair without feeling heavy or greasy.

We recommend The Ordinary Rice Lipids Ectoin Microemulsion Ultra-Lightweight Moisturiser 60ml. This ultra lightweight emulsion hydrates deeply and continuously throughout the day, all whilst helping to soothe redness and calm the skin. It supports the skin barrier, absorbs quickly and leaves a non-greasy finish that works beautifully under SPF or makeup without pilling. By blending water-affine and oil-affine ingredients, it keeps your skin soft and plump.